How to paint a kitchen extractor fan: tips and tricks

When the paint on the bell begins to bubbling, peeling, or showing spotsThe kitchen as a whole looks dated even though everything works fine. The good news is that repainting the extractor fan is an affordable project you can do at home, and if done well, it will last. moderate heat, steam, grease, and frequent cleaning.

Before you start, it's important to be clear on a few key points: the extractor combines different materials (smooth or textured metal, plastics on handles and control panelEach one requires its own preparation. You also need to choose the right paint (preferably heat-resistant), decide on the finish (matte, semi-gloss, or metallic), and consider whether you're going to seal it with a... protective layer to minimize chipping and facilitate maintenance.

What you should know before you start

Preparation is everything: proper degreasing and light sanding make all the difference between a long-lasting finish and one that will crumble. It peels off after a few monthsUnplug the extractor fan, remove the filters, and if possible, disassemble any parts that are in the way. Work in a well-ventilated area and protect the upper cabinets, countertop, and cooking area with plastic sheeting. masking tape.

If you have a TSP (trisodium phosphate) substitute on hand, use it as a degreaser to remove smoke and oil residue. This step does not replace priming: TSP cleans, but it doesn't improve the paint on its own. paint adhesionAfter degreasing, dry thoroughly with lint-free cloths.

Most cooker hoods don't reach extreme temperatures on their outer casing, but it's advisable to choose a paint that can withstand moderate heat and is washable. On the front, near the cooktop, use an appliance enamel or a paint of... high resistance Using heat and household chemicals will give you better long-term results.

Don't forget safety: wear a suitable mask for paint fumes, gloves, and goggles. Even when painting in bursts from a distance, the spray generates a fine mist; a proper ventilation and protecting the environment prevents unexpected scares and stains.

Recommended materials and tools

Gathering everything before starting allows you to work without interruptions and maintain a application sequence Correct. Think about different surfaces: metal (smooth or textured) and plastic parts that need specific treatment.

• Powerful degreaser or TSP substitute for pre-cleaning.
• Fine sandpaper: 500 grit for general matting and 320 grit for removing localized rust.
• Masking tape and protective plastic to cover furniture, controls, logos, windows and areas you don't want to paint.
• Spray paint for household appliances or high heat resistance (depending on the area and use).
• Anti-corrosive primer for exposed or rusted metal; adhesion promoter for plastics.
• For metallic finishes: steel, aluminum or copper effect paint if you're looking for a more decorative look.
• Clear varnish: ultra-resistant polyurethane for chemicals and impacts, or clear varnish compatible with temperature if you require added thermal resistance.
• Microfiber cloths, gloves, face mask and protective glasses.

If you want a special decorative effect (like a copper patina), you'll need to add a copper-colored base spray and then apply glazing techniques with greenish/blue tones or use a patina kit specific compatible with the base paint; for techniques on metal surfaces exposed to heat, consult How to paint a barbecue area with a grill.

Surface preparation: cleaning, sanding and protection

Start by disconnecting the extractor and removing filters and trim pieces if they can be easily detached. The more accessible the surfaces are, the easier the sanding will be. clean and paint conscientiously.

Remove grease with a degreaser or TSP substitute, paying particular attention to areas near the plate where oil tends to accumulate. Rinse or remove the product as directed by the manufacturer and dry thoroughly. A grease-free surface is essential for proper paint adhesion. do not crawl or form eyes.

General sanding: lightly sand all metal (smooth or textured) and any plastic areas you plan to paint with 500-grit sandpaper. The goal isn't to remove all the old paint, but to create a surface that will allow the new paint to adhere properly. grip with uniformityRemove the sanding dust with a slightly damp cloth and dry again.

Protect any areas you don't want to cover: handles, logos, visors, rubber seals, or the control panel if you decide not to paint it. Carefully apply plastic sheeting and masking tape, sealing the edges to prevent overspray and unwanted paint from showing through. teeth or burrs of painting.

If the current paintwork is in good condition

1. Unplug the appliance and place it in a well-ventilated area. Wear a mask and gloves. avoid inhalation.
2. Soft matte finish: sand all surfaces to be painted with 500 grit fine sandpaper, both metal and plastic.
3. Thorough cleaning with degreaser; removes sanding dust and grease residue to improve the adherence.
4. Meticulously mask off with plastic and tape everything you don't want to cover with paint.
5. Spray paint by shaking the can for 1 minute. Spray in short bursts from a distance of 10–15 cm, applying 2–3 thin coats. Wait 10–15 minutes between coats and alternate between horizontal and vertical spraying for a smoother finish. uniform.
6. Drying: Allow to cure for at least 24 hours before handling or using normally again.
7. To store the spray, invert the can and purge until only gas comes out; this prevents the nozzle from becoming clogged. jam.

If you detect rust or pitting

1. Sand only the rusted areas with 320 grit sandpaper until loose rust is removed and the area is stabilized.
2. Sand again generally with 500 grit for a homogeneous matte finish.
3. Apply anti-corrosion primer to the areas where you removed the rust. This layer slows its spread and prevents further corrosion. reappear.
4. Continue from the cleaning and masking step, and proceed to paint as in the previous case.

If there are also plastic parts that you are going to paint (for example, handles or the panel frame), a specific adhesion promoter for plastics significantly improves the shock resistance and reduces the risk of chipping in those areas.

Primers and choice of finish

A very common question: if you clean with a TSP substitute, do you need a primer? The short answer is that cleaning doesn't replace primer. primerTSP or its substitute removes grease and dirt, but the primer performs other functions: sealing, leveling absorption, blocking rust and, above all, promoting the anchoring of the topcoat.

When to use primer: It is essential on bare metal, areas with rust that have already been cleaned (primer anticorrosiveand recommended for plastics (adhesion promoter). If the old paint is in good condition and you have properly tempered it, you can paint without priming, but a coat of compatible primer offers added protection. durability.

Types of finishes: Matte hides imperfections, but it tends to stain and can be more difficult to clean. Semi-gloss is usually the best balance in kitchens: it's easy to clean, doesn't show marks as easily, and provides a more polished look. presentThe metallic finish (steel, aluminum or copper) enhances the look of the appliance and matches countertops or industrial finishes.

Can I paint with a matte finish and then apply a clear gloss lacquer for overall shine? Yes, a gloss varnish will increase the level of shine and can resemble the luster of a metal countertop, provided the clear coat is compatible with the base and, if needed, resistant to wear and tear. heatAnother option is to use a glossy or metallic paint directly if that's the final look you're going for.

How to apply spray paint step by step

Shake the spray can vigorously for one minute to ensure the pigments and resins are thoroughly mixed. Test the pattern on a piece of cardboard first to avoid mistakes. splash initials.

Apply in short bursts, moving your arm from side to side and maintaining a distance of 10–15 cm. It's better to apply 2–3 light coats than one heavy coat that can cause drips. Maintain the same speed and overlap each pass slightly for a more even finish. regular finish.

Allow 10–15 minutes between coats (or as indicated by the manufacturer). If you need to cover raised areas or textures, alternate the direction of your strokes (horizontal/vertical) to reach all the nooks and crannies and avoid smudging. veiled areas.

Once the last coat is applied, allow 24 hours of curing time before handling or cleaning. If the environment is cold or humid, allow even longer. Do not rush the curing process; proper curing is essential for the paint to harden and develop its full strength. washability.

Material maintenance tip: When finished, invert the can and press until only gas comes out. This quick action extends the spray's lifespan and prevents blockages. nozzle.

Sealing and protection: varnish yes or no?

Is it a good idea to add a top coat? In many situations, yes. A clear varnish compatible with the paint provides greater resistance to impacts, cleaning with household products, and wear and tear. If the extractor is very exposed or you want a extra protection, you will be interested.

For indoor kitchens, a high-strength, transparent polyurethane works very well: it protects against chemical agents and provides surface hardness. There are options with UV filters to prevent yellowing from light; while this isn't as critical indoors, it's still a good idea. added stability It always adds up.

If temperature is your priority, make sure the clear coat is compatible with moderate heat. In any case, respect the recoating times between coats of paint and clear coat to avoid wrinkles or mapping. Working with systems from the same manufacturer reduces the risk of incompatibility.

Special case: copper effect with patina on a black bell

To achieve a convincing copper patina on a glossy black range hood that will withstand real-world cooking use, combine a copper metal base with a controlled patina and seal it properly. This creates an authentic appearance and reasonable maintenance.

Proposed step-by-step instructions: Prepare as usual (degrease, 500-grit sandpaper, clean, and mask). On plastic areas (handles, frames), apply a promoter. adherence so that the system can withstand daily use.

Apply the copper metallic base coat in 2–3 thin coats, holding the brush 10–15 cm away, with 10–15 minutes between coats. Aim for even coverage by keeping your arm moving constantly and avoiding splashing. excesses that can drip.

For the patina, you have two options: a patina kit compatible with copper paint (some react to create greenish/blue tones) or a decorative effect with acrylic glazes in turquoise/verdigris applied with a sponge, rag, or dry brush. Work gradually, focusing on corners, edges, and areas of natural rust accumulation for a realistic appearance.

Once you're satisfied, seal it with a compatible clear coat. A satin finish is usually very convincing, as it mimics the soft sheen of patinated copper and makes it easier to clean grease. Make sure the varnish can withstand kitchen use and moderate heat, and respect the instructions. curing times before using the extractor again.

Quick answers to frequently asked questions

These are the most frequently asked questions. When planning the repainting of a range hood and its solution based on previous practices and experience with household appliances:

• If I use a TSP substitute before painting, do I need primer? Yes, cleaning does not replace priming. TSP (or its substitute) degreases; primer ensures adhesion and, on rusted metal, provides protection. anti-corrosion protectionFor plastics, use an adhesion promoter.
• Which finish looks best on a range hood: matte, semi-gloss, or metallic? Semi-gloss balances aesthetics and ease of cleaning. Matte hides imperfections but is more noticeable; metallic provides a modern, decorative look and coordinates with countertops metallic.
• If I paint with a matte finish and then apply a clear gloss varnish, will I achieve an overall countertop-like shine? A gloss varnish will enhance the shine and can emulate that effect if it's compatible with the base coat and suitable for kitchen use. Alternatively, you can opt for paint directly. shiny or metallic.
• Is it advisable to apply a top coat for protection? It's recommended if you want to increase resistance to impacts, chemicals, and wear. A polyurethane varnish or a heat-resistant clear coat (depending on your needs) reduces [the need for additional protection]. chipped paint and makes cleaning easier.

Care, cleaning and maintenance

Once cured, the paint holds up well to daily use if treated with appropriate products. Clean with soft cloths and non-abrasive household degreasers; avoid harsh scouring pads, and do not use aggressive solvents that could damage the paint. to dull or soften the finish.

If any marks or small dents appear, act quickly: very light local sanding, cleaning, and a fine spray can leave the surface looking like new. Keeping the filters clean reduces grease buildup in the housing and extends their lifespan. finished.

Remember to periodically check the tape seals and joints after previous masking; if you have disassembled parts, make sure to anchor them firmly again to prevent vibrations that could crack The paint with use.

A good extractor fan repaint can transform your kitchen without breaking the budget. With thorough preparation (degreasing, sanding, and priming where necessary), the right choice of paint and finish, and a final sealant if needed, you'll achieve a refreshed look. Durable and easy to cleaneven if you opt for a special finish like a well-executed copper patina.